Navigating the Complex Path of Truly Sustainable Fashion
- Eugenia Pak
- Mar 18
- 3 min read
Navigating the Complex Path of Truly Sustainable Fashion
The journey of sustainable fashion - do we want to be associated with it or take an active role in it? The fashion and textile industries are among the most polluting industries in the world. The American landfill is overflowing with countless mountains of discarded clothing, some worn out, others never even used. Despite the ongoing sustainable fashion movement, which has been shaping the industry since the 1990s and traces its roots back to the 1960s, these waste piles continue to grow. The reality is clear: we are far from being truly connected to sustainable fashion. So, what must change? Should we take different steps? The way we perceive sustainable fashion, how we define its boundaries, and where it begins and ends for us as suppliers, designers, and consumers—this is what needs a fundamental shift.
Sustainable Fabric Sourcing
Speaking from a textile supplier or importer's point of view, it is possible to track the production and raw material sourcing through a combination of supply chain management tools and traceability systems and to follow each stage of the production process, from spinning and weaving to dyeing and finishing. Some textile mills, especially European ones, share this information with their clients, offering transparency about the methods and practices used. Such tracking systems provide confidence in the sustainability and ethics behind the products purchased. Therefore, sustainable fabric suppliers are those who initiate the sustainable fashion process. When it comes to sustainable fashion brands, already established or only emerging, they are the key players who define the boundaries of sustainable fashion, pass on responsibilities for it to consumers, and, most importantly, educate them in various ways about sustainable fashion. Insights gained from nearly 18 years in the textile and fashion industries reveal that many designers entering the realm of sustainable fashion define their brands as sustainable while incorporating only a limited set of elements that reflect true sustainability in fashion. For most brands, the pursuit of sustainability begins and ends with fabric selection. In reality, the list of sustainable elements is extensive, encompassing everything from sustainable materials and fair trade practices to transparency in the supply chain, garment production, and even advocacy efforts.
Challenge: Garment Production
The use of eco-consciously produced fabrics is often the primary focus for designers aiming to create sustainable brands. However, this is just the first step in building a genuinely sustainable clothing collection. Garment production can be a challenging step in this journey, particularly for emerging designers who may not fully understand the challenges behind the scenes. Each day such a process adds to 200,000 tons of the annual textile waste in New York City alone. The industry lacks comprehensive regulation, funding, and advanced technologies, with only a few pilot projects and clothing brands currently leading the charge to tackle textile waste across the US. Nevertheless, the reality is that a fashion designer eager to embark on the sustainable fashion journey will inevitably face challenges during the garment production stage. While it may seem impossible, some production rooms and factories are choosing zero-waste practices over profit. Even if a brand successfully achieves sustainable fabric sourcing and garment production, the journey doesn’t end there—it’s merely the beginning of a much larger commitment. This is where designers and brands must take action—advocating for sustainable fashion, sharing their journey, and educating consumers—because sustainability is more than just an OEKO-TEX label or a green leaf beside a logo.
Act and Advocate
American designers can strengthen their sustainable fashion advocacy by adding biodegradability information to garment labels, helping consumers make informed choices about a product’s environmental impact, collecting worn and used clothing from their brand, or providing locations for textile donation and recycling. Mara Hoffman, Patagonia, and Madewell are among the few brands that boldly embraced this journey, paving the way for newcomers in sustainable fashion. A sustainable clothing brand must have a loud, persistent voice—it takes time and dedication to truly become one. Most importantly, designers taking their first steps into eco-conscious fashion must understand that tackling every sustainable aspect at once can be overwhelming, like sinking into quicksand. Progress happens one step at a time, one action a day. Yet, advocating for sustainable fashion must be a constant mission. Sustainable fashion is not a one-time achievement but a continuous journey that demands active participation from all sectors of the industry—and beyond. Only through persistent effort can we get state agencies to listen, collaborate, and recognize that strict regulations for textile waste are not just necessary, but crucial.
by Eugenia Pak, Head of Integrated Marketing and Sales at Ermani Group Inc
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